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Motor Set-up, Exhaust Manifolds, LT-1 parts & Gas Tank
Part 1
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We've also included some tips at the bottom of this section to help you out.
Installing Motor Mounts
The next task was to place the LT1 into place. Mark used our Small block Chevy Pro motor mounts (MM-PMC). We always recommend that the motor be set into the chassis with the vehicle at ride height. The intake should be level with the vehicle at it's final stance. This allows the fuel/air mixture to run equally to the front and rear cylinders. On fuel injections, this isn't as much of a concern due to each cylinder having it's own fuel supply.
Next, we recommend that you center the water pump in the radiator, if possible. This will allow the mechanical fan to work properly, if that's what your going to use. It's also a good idea to mount your radiator into place and double check clearances.
It helps to have as many of the parts that you will be using on the motor. Mark chose to use Sanderson cast manifolds, coated by AirBorn Coatings.
The motor and transmission were positioned with the radiator and fan in place, centering the motor between the frame rails. With the height set, the motor mounts were trimmed to length and tack welded into position. Mark made a cardboard copy of the new recessed firewall to verify the clearances and confirm motor location.
Goodies for the LT-1
While the motor was out of the car for the installation of frame boxing and Progressive's tubular X-member, Mark decided it would be the best time to detail it. Since the donor LT-1 had low miles, Mark basically chose to leave it intact. The block was smoothed and painted. For some bolt-on horsepower, the stock rocker arms were replaced with a set of narrow body, self aligning, 1.6 ratio roller rockers from Crane Cams. Installation was a breeze, the fit and finish on these parts was superb.
The water pump was removed so that the stock heater fittings could be removed. New AN style heater fittings were installed, which required tapping. Because underhood heat temperatures will not be a problem, the extra line to cool the oil filter was removed and plugged. To dress up the motor, a set of smooth polished aluminum valve covers from Naiser Racing were bolted on. Custom machining on the faces of these valve covers is also available.
Gas Tank & In-tank pump
To handle the fuel needs, a stainless steel TPI equipped gas tank from Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts was chosen. It comes with a fuel pump and filter to supply the fuel injected motor. Unlike carberated motors, fuel-injection needs more pressure and a return line, back to the tank.
Body to frame holes were used for referance to determine the tanks correct location. The original holes in the frame were then transfered to the tank's flanges and drilled for mounting bolts.
In the trunk floor an access panel was added in the middle and the stock one (on the left) was enlarged. This will allow Mark to be able to remove the sending unit, in-tank pump and filter, if they need serviced.
Motors & Transmissions Tech Tips
*It's cool to be different, but it can cost more to build. This is the main reason why almost everyone uses a small block Chevy motor. Most parts are interchangeable. Most other motors will cost more for performance and billet parts. Also, mounting bracketry (alternators, A/C compressors, etc.) may not be available through aftermarket sources.
*Don't take someone's word that a motor or transmission has been rebuilt and gone through. I wish I had a dollar for every one I know who has been taken advantage of.
*For the most part, it costs as much to have a stock type motor torn down and completely gone through (by an engine rebuilder) as what a new "crate" motor typically costs. Check out the prices first and get an estimate.
*We had a 350 (carburated) motor that we just couldn't get timed right. An "old mechanic" to me that if you use a vacuum gauge and set the time at maximum vacuum (at the intake), it would be fine. I tried it, and sure enough, it worked! All of my carburated motors I now set the timing with a vacuum gauge.
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