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Brake System
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Brake System
"It doesn't matter how fast you go, but you gotta be able to steer and stop". Words to live by. We've also included some tips at the bottom of this section to help you out.
Mark chose to hold off welding the new floorboards in to allow good access to install the brake components and plumbing. Utilizing Progressive’s Brake Pedal Kit and keeping the booster’s center line in mind the pedal support tube was trimmed to fit the X-member and tacked in position.
For your application it maybe necessary to bend the pedal to clear the steering column. A clearance slot was cut in the toeboard support to clear the pedal. Since Mark ran all the exhaust down the passenger side more space was available to mount the booster and master cylinder from Stainless Steel Brakes so he opted for a ¼ steel mounting plate bridging between the X-member and frame rail. Once positioned it was tack welded to the frame.
Also visible is the billet aluminum master cylinder cover that is part of the remote fill kit from Stainless Steel Brakes. Three holes were then drilled in the firewall to mount the Remote Reservoir. You want to mount it higher than any brake bleeder screws to eliminate the need for residual valves. It was then plumbed with the included stainless hard line. Be sure to use grommets whenever passing through the sheetmetal.
The frame rail was drilled and tapped to accept the aircraft quality nylon T-Clamps from Made For You Products . They are part of an All Plumb ® T-CLAMP Kit designed to handle your brake, fuel, transmission, vacuum and electrical needs. They are also available in 6 different colors.
Mark then mounted Stainless Steel Brakes proportioning valve to the inside of the frame rail for regulating the rear calipers. The remainder of the hard lines will be plumbed with the body off.
A posterboard copy of the toeboard was used to determine where the brake pedal hole was needed and then transferred to the toeboard.
Brake tips
Again, this is what we have found works best for us. Everyone has opinions in this area.
*Keep the exhaust pipes away from brake lines and components! Your brakes will "fade" when the fluid heats up!
*Always use a Dual reservoir master cylinder. Let's be safe on the road, pure & simple!
*If you've modified the brake pedal, make sure that it still has enough throw to bottom out the master cylinder.
*Most power booster have a recommended 18 lbs. of vacuum to work. Check your vacuum at the intake. Also, use hose specifically for boosters.
*Always double flare your brake lines!
*Power bleed your brake system!
*Adjustable proportioning valves will allow you to fine tune the brakes.
*Residual valves, when using a under body master cylinder without a remote reservoir, should be used.
*Frank at Frank's Street Rod Parts, Ft. Myers, FL., (941) 267-5394, told me an interesting tip. He assembled a disc brake kit on a vehicle and couldn't get the front rebuilt calipers to "grab". He power bleed the brakes, and still no "grab". Seems the pistons needed about 10 psi of air shot through them to allow the pistons to pop out and create a fluid pocket. This allowed enough fluid volume for them to be bled and work properly!
*Another customer had a problem with 1 front caliper not releasing. He took off the factory hose and found, by using a air gun, that a piece inside the hose was acting as a "flapper".
*Larry at Rhode's Custom Auto Works, Townsend, DE., (302) 378-1701, pointed out that an awful lot of people hook their master cylinders up backwards. He was trying to help out a guy with a 57' Chevy that had no brakes and noticed that the lines were plumbed wrong. They switched the lines and, Viola, brakes !
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Copyright © 1999-2004 Bob Shetrone